Let me share my take on Pinikpikan, a dish that holds deep cultural roots in the Philippine Cordilleras.
During my college years in Baguio, I was lucky enough to try the traditional version through my Igorot classmate. The original dish has quite a story. It’s typically prepared as part of a ritual, with some practices that might raise eyebrows today.
But you know what? I’ve found a way to capture those incredible smoky flavors and tender textures while keeping things ethical and kitchen-friendly.
We’re going to carefully smoke and char the chicken, and I’ve got a clever substitute for etag (that hard-to-find Igorot cured pork) – speck works amazingly well! It brings that same rich, umami depth that makes this soup so special.
This version keeps the soul of the dish intact while making it accessible to home cooks. Let’s get cooking!
Why You’ll Love This Recipe
- Authentic Smoky Flavor: Our cooking method recreates the traditional smoky essence without compromising ethics
- Cultural Experience: Connect with Filipino highland cuisine through this meaningful dish
- Nutritious Ingredients: A protein-rich soup featuring fresh vegetables and aromatic herbs
- Make-Ahead Friendly: Tastes even better the next day
- Versatile: Can be modified based on available ingredients while maintaining authentic flavors
Modern Pinikpikan Recipe
Equipment
- Hooded Charcoal Grill Essential for achieving the signature smoke flavor
- Large Heavy-Bottom Pot (malaking kaldero) For even heat distribution during simmering
- Sharp knife [Matalas na kutsilyo] For breaking down the chicken
- Cutting board (Sangkalan) For ingredient preparation
- Kitchen tongs (Sipit) For handling chicken during grilling
- Measuring cups and spoons (Panukat) For precise ingredient portions
Ingredients
- 1 whole free-range chicken manok na native, about 1.5 kg
- 200 g speck or etag traditional Igorot smoked meat*
- 1 large bunch bok choy pechay Baguio
- 2 chayote sayote, sliced
- 2 stalks celery kinchay, sliced
- 1- inch ginger luya, thinly sliced
- 2 red onions sibuyas, chopped
- 4 cloves garlic bawang, smashed
- 1/2 cup tapuy or rice wine alak ng bigas
- Water as needed
- Cooking oil
- Salt to taste
Instructions
- Begin by preparing your grill (ihawan). Light charcoal on just one side, waiting until the coals are covered with white ash and have reached a medium-high temperature of around 375°F/190°C.
- Take your whole chicken (manok na native) and cut it in half lengthwise (hatiin ang manok). Season both halves generously with salt (asin). Place the chicken halves skin-side up on the cool side of the grill, away from the direct heat. Cover the grill and let the chicken smoke (pag-aaso) for 15 minutes at 250°F/120°C.
- After smoking, increase the grill temperature to high (400-450°F/200-230°C). Move the chicken pieces directly over the heat and grill both sides until well-charred (pagpapaitim). Remove from heat and let cool before chopping into serving pieces (tadtarin).
- While waiting for the chicken to cool, heat oil in a large pot (kaldero) over medium heat (katamtamang init). Add your aromatics: sautéed celery (kinchay), thinly sliced ginger (luya), chopped red onions (sibuyas), and smashed garlic (bawang). Cook until fragrant and the onions are translucent (malinaw), about 3-4 minutes.
- Add your chopped smoked chicken pieces to the pot along with the speck or etag. Pour in the rice wine (tapuy o alak ng bigas) and enough water to cover the chicken completely (tubig na pantakip sa manok). Bring the mixture to a boil (pakuluan), then reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer (pahinang init) for 30 minutes.
- Once the chicken is nearly tender (medyo luto na), add the sliced chayote (sayote). Continue simmering for 8 minutes until the chayote is almost cooked through but still slightly firm (medyo matigas pa).
- For the final step, add the bok choy or shanghai (pechay Baguio). Let it simmer for just 2 minutes until the greens are bright and tender-crisp (malutong-presko). Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt (timplahan ng asin) as needed.
- Serve your pinikpikan hot in individual bowls (mainit-init), accompanied by steamed rice (kanin). If desired, provide small dishes of bird’s eye chilies (siling labuyo) on the side for those who enjoy extra heat. The soup should be enjoyed while still steaming, allowing the full aroma of the smoked meat and vegetables to be appreciated (lasapin ang usok at lasa ng mga sangkap).
- For best results, let the soup rest for 5-10 minutes before serving, allowing the flavors to fully meld together (payapang paghalo ng mga lasa). This dish tastes even better the next day after the flavors have had time to develop further in the refrigerator (mas masarap kinabukasan).
Tips from Lola’s Kitchen
- Use native chicken (manok na native) for authentic texture and flavor
- Don’t rush the smoking process – this develops the signature taste
- Keep grill temperature consistent for even cooking
- Let the soup simmer slowly to extract maximum flavor
- Add salt gradually and taste as you go
Traditional Serving Suggestions
- Serve hot in individual bowls
- Pair with steamed rice (kanin)
- Traditionally enjoyed with tapuy (rice wine)
- Optional: Serve with sili (chili) on the side
- Best enjoyed shared with family and friends
Troubleshooting
- Soup too oily: Skim excess fat from surface
- Chicken tough: Extend simmering time
- Too salty: Add more vegetables or water
- Not smoky enough: Increase initial smoking time
Ingredient Alternatives
- Speck/Etag: Smoked bacon, ham hock
- Bok Choy: Napa cabbage, spinach
- Chayote: Green papaya, potato
- Tapuy: Sake, dry white wine, or chicken broth
- Native Chicken: Regular free-range chicken
Storage & Reheating
- Storage: Refrigerate in airtight container up to 3 days
- Freezing: Suitable for freezing up to 2 months
- Reheating: Gentle simmer until hot, add water if needed
- Best consumed within 24-48 hours for optimal flavor
Variations
- Seafood Pinikpikan
- Add shrimp or fish balls
- Include ginger and lemongrass
- Vegetable-Rich Version
- Add more highland vegetables
- Include sweet potato or taro
- Spicy Version
- Add bird’s eye chilies
- Include ginger and black pepper
FAQs
Q: Can I make this without a grill? A: Yes, use a stovetop smoker or liquid smoke as alternative. Q: Is native chicken essential? A: While preferred for authenticity, regular free-range chicken works well. Q: How spicy is this dish? A: Traditional version is mild; adjust with chilies to taste. Q: Can I make it healthier? A: Use leaner meat cuts and add more vegetables.
Nutrition
The Story Behind Pinikpikan
In the cloud-kissed peaks of the Cordillera mountains, where ancient traditions still whisper through pine-scented air, lies the origin of one of the Philippines’ most intriguing dishes – pinikpikan. This isn’t just a soup; it’s a testament to the deep spiritual connection between the Igorot people and their ancestral traditions, where food preparation was intertwined with sacred rituals and community wisdom.
The name itself tells a story – derived from the Ilocano word “pikpik,” meaning to beat or tap gently, pinikpikan originally served as more than mere sustenance. It was a ritualistic dish prepared when the community faced important decisions or sought guidance from their ancestors. The traditional preparation, while controversial by modern standards, was a ceremonial process where every step held deeper meaning for the Igorot elders who performed it.
Walking through Baguio City’s misty streets during my college years, I first encountered pinikpikan through my Igorot classmate’s family. The aromatic blend of smoky chicken, etag (their traditional cured pork), and mountain vegetables opened my eyes to a culinary tradition that has survived generations. The soup’s complex flavors – smoky, savory, with subtle hints of fermented rice wine – told the story of highland ingenuity, where preservation techniques and local ingredients came together in perfect harmony.
What makes pinikpikan truly special is how it reflects the Cordillera region’s terroir. The traditional etag, cured in the cool mountain air and smoked using pine wood, brings a distinct flavor that can only be found in these highlands. The soup’s vegetables – sayote (chayote) and pechay Baguio (bok choy) – are staples of the region’s farming communities, thriving in the cool mountain climate that the Cordilleras are famous for.
Today, this dish stands at a fascinating crossroads between preservation and adaptation. Modern versions, like the recipe I’m sharing, honor the dish’s essence while adapting to contemporary values. The smoking technique still imparts that crucial charred flavor, while carefully chosen substitutes like speck maintain the authentic taste profile that etag traditionally provides. It’s a respectful evolution that keeps the soul of pinikpikan alive for new generations to discover and appreciate.
In every bowl of pinikpikan, you’ll taste more than just a soup – you’re experiencing centuries of Cordilleran culture, adapted for today’s kitchen but still carrying the essence of those misty mountains where it all began. As we continue to explore and celebrate Filipino cuisine, dishes like pinikpikan remind us that every recipe tells a story of people, place, and tradition, waiting to be shared with the world.
